Sweating through history

Sunday, July 8 (Day 13) — After our experience yesterday with the crowds and the heat, we thought we'd play it smart and hit some of the sights we most wanted to see on Capitol Mall before all the people arrived. After having a small breakfast down in the hotel café , we hit the streets just before 9:30 a.m. with the goal of seeing the things we didn't get to see yesterday. Our first stop was the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum.

Being Sunday morning, there were hardly any people out and about. Unfortunately, the museum didn't open until 10, so we staked out a spot near the front entrance and waited patiently about 20 minutes until the doors opened. Even then there was a line. The Air & Space Museum is easily the most popular of the Smithsonian's attractions, so it was a good thing we decided to see it first while we still had plenty of energy. There wouldn't have been a line in the old days, but that was before security screenings. Now everything has a line and takes more time than it should.

Once inside, we quickly saw the second floor exhibits including those on space exploration, the moon missions and the Wright Brothers. Because the museum of American history is undergoing renovations until next year, some of the exhibits have been moved into the A&S museum. I don't know why, but there's something about seeing the ruby slippers from "Wizard of Oz" that forces one to take pictures. I also liked seeing the original uniforms of Gen. George Washington and Gen. George Armstrong Custer. We saw the desk Thomas Jefferson used to draft the Declaration of Independence, the original coronet of Louis Armstrong, and Archie Bunker's chair from the "All in the Family" TV show.

Naturally we didn't have enough time to linger and see all the exhibits if we wanted to get to the Lincoln Memorial. We left the museum and headed northwest, bypassing the National Archives which I had wanted to see because Roni was concerned we'd wear ourselves out walking around the museums before we got to the west side of the mall. Anyway, we also wanted to see the White House, which was still a hike across some busy streets. The South Lawn of the White House that you always see on the evening newscasts is not easily accessible. The Elipse that runs just south of the White House and north of Constitution Avenue is heavily fortified. You absolutely cannot drive past the south fence unless you have security clearance. You are still allowed to walk up — which we did along with dozens of other tourists — for a fleeting glimpse of the White House and the large South Lawn fountain. Roni took a couple of photos of Ben and me standing in front of the fence, and I was getting ready to shoot a couple of her when all of a sudden a Secret Service agent ordered everyone to stop taking pictures and make our way to one side street or the other. No other explanation, but we could tell something was up. There were police everywhere, heavily armed guards patrolling the South Lawn, a sharpshooter on the White House roof. What else could it be but the President's impending arrival?

We continued west to the corner of E and 17th streets, and when nothing seemed to be happening we headed south to the World War II memorial. It was while we were there checking it out that a pair of Marine helicopters clattered by overhead, ducked behind the Washington Monument and headed straight for the White House. Roni got photos, and it was when we enlarged them later that we could see the presidential seal on the side of the first chopper. Seems that no matter where we travel, President Bush is somewhere in the vicinity.

It was interesting seeing the World War II memorial for the first time, because it had only opened in 2004. It is beautiful in its simplicity, with a large reflecting pool in the center flanked by a couple of fountains. Around the perimeter of the pool are wreathed markers representing each of the 50 states, and large balconies on the north and south sides of the pool symbolizing the Pacific and Atlantic theaters. Immediately to the west is the pathway that leads to the Lincoln Memorial.

The route we would have followed to the Lincoln Memorial along the reflecting pool was fenced off still from the fireworks celebration of four nights ago, so we were forced to follow another path that took us by a refreshment stand. One thing I can say for the National Park Service is that they make good sandwiches. Some of the best food we've eaten while in Washington, D.C., has come from those park kiosks. By now it was after 1 p.m. and the heat and long walk were catching up with us. You don't realize how far apart things are in the mall until you actually walk to them. I had hoped that we would get to walk along the Tidal Basin to check out the Jefferson Memorial, which I have never seen up close, but after some discussion we decided it might be all we could manage to do the Lincoln Memorial and then head back to the hotel.

The crowds that had been nonexistent early in the day had come out of the woodwork by the time we arrived at Lincoln's steps. Lots of folks milled around on the steps and inside the statue's chamber, making it all but impossible to get unobstructed photos. But the memorial is really a place where you just have to linger and appreciate the legacy of the man who kept our nation together during its greatest crisis. People are in awe of Lincoln, and for good reason.

The view from the steps of the memorial is incredible. You can see all the way east to the Capitol, and because people weren't being allowed near the reflecting pool, there were opportunities for pictures mostly free of annoying obstructions. Yet, as Roni noted, the mall is disappointing because the grass is mostly brown. I dislike the fact that everything around here is behind fences and barricades, some of which is necessitated by security precautions, but it definitely detracts from the overall experience.

Once we had finished at the Lincoln Memorial it became obvious that we weren't going to make it to any other distant attractions this hot afternoon. Temperatures were up in the mid-90s and the sun was blazing. We had used SPF-6 suntan lotion in lieu of the SPF-50 sunscreen spray we'd had to turn in yesterday, and sadly it wasn't working as well. My right shoulder was turning a bright red. At least I'd worn jeans instead of shorts to protect my legs. We were guzzling water at every fountain we passed, refilling the plastic bottle Roni had saved for just that purpose. We made a quick pass through the Vietnam wall and started heading east along Constitution Avenue, returning to the National Archives as Roni had promised we would do.

We were getting more achy, taking more frequent breaks as we walked farther. Then Roni saw one of the Circulator buses that run in a loop around the mall. For a buck you can hop on and ride as far as you need. I thought it was only a little farther to the Archives, but we were all exhausted and needed the rest, so we hopped on that bus for some air conditioned comfort. Turns out the ride was longer than I'd thought. I couldn't believe how far we'd come. If we don't get any other exercise on this trip, we certainly can't complain about not getting in any walking time in D.C.

The National Archives building is home to the original documents that established our country, and as such it is one of the most popular attractions. I wished we had visited earlier in the day when there was no line; now we had to wait in the sun for the security screening. The thing I hate most about these checkpoints is that the security personnel make you feel like utter scum as you get screened — put all your cameras and bags in the plastic bin, dispose of all beverages, no metal objects, take off your belt, etc., etc., etc... They make you feel like it's your fault everyone has to go through these checkpoints. Gee, thanks Osama bin Laden.

The Constitution, Declaration of Independence, Bill of Rights and several other key documents are located in a rotunda where no flash photography is allowed. They only allow so many people in the room at a time and there is no line system, so if you want to get up close to the displays you pretty much have to push your way in. That is pretty lame. But for a glimpse of these original artifacts of history it is worth the hassle. Nothing quite like seeing the original signature of George Washington on the bottom of the Constitution. Or John Hancock's authentic John Hancock on the Declaration of Independence.

After finding our way out of the maze that is the National Archives building, we dragged our sore bodies back to the Holiday Inn and crashed in our room until dinner time around 6:30 p.m. We couldn't decide what to eat, so ultimately decided on Smithson's again. Everything here is overpriced and there is precious little variety. Someone would make a killing if they opened up a decent ice cream parlor here. We had wanted to pick up sandwiches from the deli this morning, but the clerk there said they only get 50 in each morning and once they're gone, they're gone. We arrived too early for the day's delivery. By the time we got back from our sightseeing, they were closed. Sigh.

Roni had suggested that tonight we might want to hop in the car for a quick drive around the city to see the attractions all lit up. That sounds good, in theory. But apart from the fact we are all very tired tonight, I am loathe to give up my spot in the parking garage for fear I won't get it back. Not to mention that getting into the space was so tough, the more times I have to move the car the more opportunities to hit something. I've been lucky in that regard so far, no need to press my luck.